FEIBP 2017 Raw Materials Report: Fine Hair

By Mark Samuel, Mark Samuel Trading

This years, some may say exciting while others may say disastrous news, has seen the dramatic rise in sable prices. The increase started at the end of 2016, and we have seen continuous rises on a near monthly basis which has made it very hard for brushmakers who fixed sales prices at the beginning of the year.

To give you some idea of the increases, 25mm weasel hair has jumped about 70% and other lengths by a minimum of 50%. Some raw tails have now doubled in price, and extra-long kolinsky hair is now reaching the $10,000 mark. This may seem high and, indeed, it is expensive, but those with a long memory will know that these prices are not unprecedented and, looking through my records, it is interesting to note that today’s prices are almost identical to 1999, which if we take inflation into account, means prices are still cheap!

So, after this year’s increases you would expect, as in previous cycles, a fall in prices, but I wouldn’t bet on it happening soon. The main reason for the increase is due to the fall in demand within the fur industry for sable garments, which means furriers won’t collect pelts if they can’t get enough money for the skins. I remind you that the brush industry uses the left-over tails from the pelt and, as an aside, it is interesting to note that the city of Leipzig in the late19th and early 20th century was the centre of the world’s fur industry, employing up to 10,000 people or 5% of the population. So, to make it worth their while, they need to charge more for the tails and, subsequently, the hair. As demand for fur doesn’t look like increasing soon, it looks like prices will remain high, unless global warming reverses and we all suddenly need fur coats or we stop using environmentally damaging oil-based synthetics!

Which brings me on to the continuing trend of synthetic filaments replacing natural hair. As reported last year, many cosmetic companies have changed to all synthetic ranges but this has not yet led to a decrease in prices of most types of natural hair, as supply is limited and demand is still there.

Another reason prices are remaining high is that quite a few factories have closed due to lack of demand, and others have closed due to a clampdown by the Chinese authorities on any factory not complying with new environmental regulations. This has affected a few fine hair factories, but it has been more of an issue for factories producing chemically tapered filaments, with some already closed down and others having to invest in effluent treatment facilities.

Mark Samuel of Mark Samuel Trading Co Ltd is a well-respected expert on fine hair and artist/cosmetic brush supplies. The company offers fine hair, as well as bristle, mixtures, synthetics and components and can be contacted via the link below:

FEIBP Market Report 2017: Thermoplastic Polymers Slideshow

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FEIBP European Brushware Federation

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Mark Samuel Trading Co.Ltd

United Kingdom

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