The hair sector has always been a source of inspiration and originality, becoming an expression of technical and creative mastery. Cuts, colours, textures, shades and hairstyles express the uniqueness of those who wear them and those who create them.

During the last edition of Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna, on the On Hair stage, 18 selected artistic teams brought the latest trends in haircuts, colour and the most innovative hairstyling techniques to the catwalk with spectacular and evocative shows presented to operators at the event. The trends that emerged on the On Hair stage will be the stars of the most popular looks in salons in the coming months, but they also reflect an increasing focus on social and topical issues.

Non-conformism, irreverent cuts and 70s and 90s influences. The new trends that emerged on the On Hair stage play with vintage styles and fashions, revisiting them in a contemporary key for cheeky looks with significant visual impact. In his "Illusion Show," created in collaboration with Alfaparf Milano Professional, Lorenzo Marchelle, Artistic Director of the Attilio Artistic Team, plays with the idea that a person's image can be the result of a marvellous and entertaining art, in which hair becomes the protagonist. "Bold cuts, flamboyant colours, wigs and hairstyles that look like real sculptures: all this is what we presented and reviewed in May at the Met Gala in New York."

"This year's On Hair was an incredible experience for our Essential Looks team," commented Alessandro Fratini, Federico Fascella, Elisa Bonanni, Martino Pisanu and Ulderico Nasti, Essential Look team ambassadors in collaboration with Schwarzkopf Professional. "A return to the origins with natural styles and textures, in colour soft shades for long hair and nuances in honey and gold tones. We entered a utopian virtual garden with floating lines and pastel colours with the Virtual Eden trend, declared our independence and all our character with sensual auburn and apricot shades in Selfhood, and showed all our outsider soul with The Misfits, with mullets and butterfly cuts for a dystopian back-to-basics."

The mullet was also the star of the show created by Paul Gehring, Brelil Artistic Director: "On the On Hair catwalk, we presented a hair fashion collection that was accessible to all, extremely glamorous and must-have. Trends serve to identify oneself in style, stand out, and proclaim individuality. We are in a time of a strong call to the past, drawing inspiration from the 70s, 80s and 90s. Curly hair is not just a trend but a reality. For Gen-Z, curly hair is no longer an impediment to a mullet, a shag, a bob, or a short fringe. We proposed the mullet in all its versions, with that musical air of the 70s and without gender identity."

Even for men's fashion, trends see a return to the past, as Marco Fabbricini, Artistic Director of American Crew Italia, explained: "The editorial look this season is inspired by the return of British fashion and the '90s look, where shapes become soft and roundness modulated. The appeal is the old bob revisited in a masculine key. Completing the style is the total absence of a beard."

The classic elegance of Renaissance beauty inspired extremely feminine and timeless looks that reflect the sophistication of modern, self-conscious women. "For the MY.ORGANICS show at On Hair 2023 I was inspired by the Renaissance artistic period, reinventing shapes and textures for a modern world," commented Richard Phillipart, MY.ORGANICS Artistic Director. "Only by looking back can we truly move forward. Through the hairdressing and beauty industry, we will continue to see references to past styles in new and appealing versions. Stylists from London to Milan on the catwalks have used their history to reinvent new garments, and hairstyling is responding with exciting reinterpretations of textures, lengths and styles."

"The Italian Neo-Renaissance, the refinement of the close-cropped hair. Class and elegance, expressed through techniques and the balanced composition of shapes, this is the theme we will see more and more," explained Filippo Sepe, International Hair Master, talking about the themes that inspired the show created in collaboration with Poliestetico in Milan. "The woman of tomorrow collects her hair for practicality, but a simple ponytail or a single braid is no longer enough. She wants a hairstyle that emphasises her elegance, refined and particular, enhancing her physiognomic features and adapting to her needs."

In collaboration with Schwarzkopf Professional, Deris Sbabo, Vanessa Alfonsi, Francesca Farci, Enzo Vitale, and Matteo Forlin from The Blond Club team, ,also celebrated women and their beauty. "In the exceptional and international setting of On Hair 2023, the 'Volupta' collection by The Blond Club was presented, underlining the importance of a conscious and modern vision of femininity. Cashmere, butter and peach colours are evocative of enveloping sensations and a soft, warm light: the shades, unprecedented in their interpretation, offer a seductive alternative to the classic cold shades of blond. With 'Volupta', The Blond Club team has not only set a new standard for the blonde beauty but also reaffirmed the importance of a deeper, more conscious vision of beauty: a beauty that reflects the individuality of each woman, celebrating her uniqueness and irresistible appeal."

 

Femininity and elegance were the stars of the Now Progressional Team show in collaboration with Alfaparf Milano Professional. "The trends presented are mainly aimed at women who love clean, soft lines, with deliberately lived-in styling," explained Leonardo Minelli, Artistic Director of Now Progressional Team. "Pastel colours that enhance femininity in absolute simplicity. We want to express a sense of quality, comfortable, up-to-date work. Surely the ease with which this collection can be dressed will also make it a protagonist in the following months: in summer for the cuts that lend themselves to wet looks or that come alive with the movement of a sea or mountain breeze; in autumn/winter to play with colour techniques, changing the nuances according to the skin tone acquired by the sun."

Finally, nature, respect for the environment and the dramatic reality of climate change also inspired the artistic teams present at On Hair, with shows that spotlight issues that are as important as they are topical.

"This season's looks are inspired by nature in a new and unexpected way," said Gianluca Sasso, Founder, Creative and Artistic Director of Revlon Professional. "In this post-pandemic period, the "Blooming Collection" colour palette will encourage our women to express themselves creatively and boldly. The cuts in the collection innovatively replicate the textures of nature."

Nature has been a source of artistic inspiration but also for creating new formulas and more sustainable ingredients for the environment. Michele Rinaldi, Founder Acconciature Michele Rinaldi, presented at On Hair "the revolutionary method for colouring hair based on pure dye plants, free of any chemical ingredients, and hot water. The method guarantees high performance and white coverage of any desired shade. The project has a mission of great value: the dissemination of natural, plant-based colouring created with total respect for the environment."

In his show 'KAOS', Gino Avolio, Artistic Director of Gea Academy, spoke of the great instability experienced today by the world's populations, who face wars, natural catastrophes and revolutions. "Nature rebels with all its might with wind, water and fire; the call is immediate for the respect we must have for our planet to give our great-grandchildren a better future. It is, therefore, concepts such as respect for nature, the promotion of different lifestyles that are more environmentally friendly, and the search for new sources of energy that represent the true salvation for humanity."